Got up early and had breakfast while Ann was still sleeping. Later in the morning, I went for a run. Temperature was in the 40s, but I wasn't too cold. I had checked out the map of streets nearby, and I initially headed over to the zoo park. But it looked like you needed to enter the zoo to get to the park, so I turned around and ran to the other side of the train station. I headed down that way, looking for a street to get me over to the city park, then ran to there. I ran on several of the trails around the park, which isn't that big. Eventually I exited the park and ran back toward our Airbnb. It was right at 5k, which was just about right on this day. I ran each mile faster than the previous one.
Avg pace = 8:03/mile
Total distance = 3.13 miles
Elapsed time = 25:15
Avg heartrate = 159 bpm
I had a shower when I got back, then we walked over to the train station and bought tickets for the subway, taking it back to Groenplats, and then walking over to Grote Markt Plaza to meet our free tour guide near the fountain in the center of the square. The guide Beren was pretty good, informative and not lecturing. Here are the notes I captured during the tour.
Scheldt river runs through Antwerp. Beren was our guide.
Hand werpen - Antwerp origin, giant cutting off hands of sailors and blocking river until his own hand was chopped off by Brabo.
Mother Maria is patron saint of city
16th century Renaissance era, golden age of city.
Antwerp nickname is Biscuit City. Not so many factories left.
The Meir is the main shopping street. KBC building was tallest in Europe in 1930, art deco with embedded Virgin Mary sculpture.
Friday Market Square is by Plantin-Moretus Museum, UNESCO site. Christophe Plantin was instrumental in printing Humanist literature. Bible is 5 languages was a masterpiece from him, commissioned by Phillip II of Spain. Printed for both Catholics and Protestants. Son-in-law was of Moretus family.
Maas Museum has free panoramic view.
Stock Exchange building interior looks like a church, Gothic style arcade with art deco elements. Built in 1872.
Train station is neo Renaissance style architecture
Ruebens was the Thomas Kincade of his time, also a diplomat to try and keep Antwerp free and thriving. Statue of him as a diplomat.
Het Steen is oldest building lower area from 13th century, borrow wall portion is still present. Over 100k residents in 16th century. This was the prison, including during Spanish Inquisition.
Left bank built in 20th century. Before then it was Flanders.
No bridges across river, old tunnel is cool to walk across. Belgium formed in 1830. Major expansion started after elimination of tolls to use river. Diamond Capitol of the world. Large cadre of orthodox jews. Some synthetic diamonds created too, cut by lasers. More than 80% of diamonds come through and are cut. Color clarity cut carats.
Many canals used to enter city, some covered by streets. Antwerp fell in 80 Years War between Phillip I I and Spain. Spanish blockade made it happen. All the Protestants fled to the north, Antwerp fell to spanishHapsburgs. Some underground canals still exist for stinky tours
De Kathedraal is largest cathedral in the Low Countries. Two famous paintings by PP Ruebens. 123 M tall tower, originally supposed to be two. UNESCO heritage site is tower, as is City Hall in Grote Markt.
Elixir d'Anvers is Antwerp liqueur, was used on horses for colic. Used today by Amish for similar reason. City beer is Bolleke by De Koninck.
Henrik Square by church, was first car-free square, paving stones form geometric shapes. Jesuits were dominant brotherhood, IHS. Baroque style facade designed by Ruebens, also ceiling painting. Baroque art masters running ateliers. High degree of specialization in art subjects
The Chocolate Line is recommended.
Bar, Elfde Gebod, is in a building from 1425,originally houses turf bearers.
After the tour, we walked around trying to find a recommended place for Belgian waffles, Desire de Lille. The location given by Google Maps was closed for renovation, but Ann got a tip from a shopkeeper, and we ended up walking back to right where the tour ended. Oh well. She had a waffle and I had apple beignet. Both were good, although the beignets were a little greasy. Then we walked back to the subway station and thus back to the flat. I ate dinner, leftovers from the previous evening, then we headed back to near the same location to have a drink and a cheese board at the bar, Elfde Gebod, near the cathedral. There was a guitar player / singer as well, and he was decent to listen to. We were there about an hour, then I was ready to call it a day. We took the subway back. By the way, the weather on this day was just fantastic, a cool, sunny spring day with a little breeze.
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