Avg pace = 8:19/mi
Total distance = 3.18 mi
Elapsed moving time = 26:29
Avg heartrate = 123 bpm
Relative Effort = 6
Got home, did a little work on the computer, then I got ready for a swim at the WWC. It was really busy at the opening, but the pool wasn't too busy to begin with. It got more crowded soon after I started, but I had my preferred lane. I swam the first 1000 yds, took a little pause, then swam another 200, another break, followed by a 300 to get to a total of 1500, with the following split times: 9:23, 9:39, 9:25. I didn't select the right workout type on my watch, so this one wasn't recorded, other than on video.
Avg pace = 1:54/100 yds (Video, not counting pause)
Total distance = 1500 yds
Elapsed moving time = 28:27 (Video)
Had some cereal when I got home, then I chilled for a while. Ann, Kathy, and Heather drove down to Coronado, walked around in the afternoon and watched a concert with a Fleetwood Mac cover band at Spreckels Park before heading home in the evening. I stayed home and decided to try and remove my crankset to lubricate the bearings. This turned out to be an adventure. First I removed the Dub cap on the drive side crank using the tool I had bought when I got the cap in the first place (it didn't come with the bike). Then I loosened the 2 mm Allen bolt on the pre-tension wheel on the non-drive side. Next I used an 8 mm Allen wrench to loosen the bolt holding the crank on. Lots of videos said this bolt could be very difficult to loosen, but I didn't have any problems. When I removed it, I couldn't get the crank off. I went back to look at other videos, looked up the serial number for my bike to get the exact model of the crank, still no luck. I went into the garage and out a number of times, resolved to take it into Poway Bikes and have them show me how to remove it. At this point I found another video that mentioned extracting the crank, and I thought about the olden days, when you needed a crank extractor tool to do this job. This other video mentioned the need to have the Dub cap on while loosening the bolt, since this cap then effectively serves as the crank extractor. So I put the crank back on, tightened the bolt somewhat, then put the cap back on. Then, when I loosened the 8 mm bolt again the crank came off. Success! I had figured it out myself, with lots of help from videos. Got the crank off, then a couple of taps with a rubber mallet loosened the other side and allowed me to remove it too. As far as I can tell, I found that the bearings are sealed and can't be opened up. So I applied grease to the areas where the bearings were rotating, in the hope that some of this grease might make it into the bearings. Then I reinstalled the non-drive side arm (it took a couple of times before I could get it to seat), and reattached the spider assembly on the drive side, using a torque wrench to tighten it to specifications. I put the Dub cap back on and manually tightened the pre-tension wheel finger-tight, then backed off a tiny big before tightening the little locking bolt with the 2 mm Allen wrench. Had taken the pedals and chain off for easier access, so I reinstalled them as well, lubricating the pedals before putting them back on. Everything seems to be put back together, may need a shake-out ride to verify proper operation. The rest of the day and evening were fairly quiet, I had leftovers for dinner, nothing major to note (<>).
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