03-12-2025 Walks

8% grade steepest in Japan and second steepest in the world. 3 switchbacks, where train changed direction. Water from tank sprinkled on tracks on sharp uphill curves, smaller cars to accommodate sharp turns. Driver in front, conductor in back. Tunnels over 100 years old. 

The Hakone Tozan train ride up to Gora was interesting and scenic (see above). When we got to Gora, the sun came out, so we decided to keep going up via the cable car and the ropeway.

Cable car is 1.2 km long, 200 m elevation gain, opened in 1921

Ropeway takes 8 minutes to Owakudani, elevation at top is 1100 m. Then 10+ minutes to Togendai,where we got off the aerial tram at Lake Ashi. Pirate-themed ships, for some reason, taking visitors across the lake. There were also swan paddle boats, but I resisted the urge. Coffee and a beer at Brasserie Yamabiko. Forever to get a pour-over coffee, but vibe was nice. Big Joni Mitchell fans

Owakudani volcanic eruption about 3000 years ago

Cafe Douce

Slept pretty well, not as vivid a dreaming cycle. I ate a big breakfast after I got up, thinking (correctly) that it might be a long time to lunch. Then we finished packing and cleaning and walked back to Hakone-Yumoto Station, where we purchased 1-day passes for the Hakone Tozan Rail train. We rode it up to Gora, took about 40 minutes and was an interesting and scenic ride. In Gora, we walked around a little bit, not much to see, to we bought another 1-day pass for the cable car and ropeway. This excursion up to Lake Ashi was pretty cool, would have been better if the weather had been clearer. We went straight up and then down to Togendai, by Lake Ashi. Walk around here was mildly interesting.

It was fogged in on the way down and steadily raining. We didn't stop at Gora, just got on the train and rode to the next station, where we got off and found a little place, Cafe Douce, where they even had vegetarian menu options. Was worried that I wouldn't be able to find something to eat. Food was edible, not great. We got on the next train going back to Hakone-Yumoto. It was crowded, so I ended up standing, which worked out okay. Got to see more closely how the train executed its switchbacks, and that was fascinating. From there, we used out 1-day pass to get back to Odawara after retrieving our stuff from the locker. Recharged our Suica cards with a little bit of money while there, then caught the train to our last Airbnb in Kamakura. We changed trains once on the way,and it went smoothly. The walk from the train station to the Airbnb was a wet one, we saw the hardest rain yet. I was very thankful for my umbrella, it kept me mostly dry, but my backpack get a little wet. Ann was soaked, but her coat and shoes kept her dry. I used most of our remaining groceries to prepare dinner - stir fry with pasta and pesto sauce. It was a quiet last evening in Japan.